The Olden Days - BDE Flower Designs - Part 2

The other day I started writing about our Brazilian dimensional embroidery flowers from The Olden Days ... flowers that have been around forever and are pretty much considered public domain since everybody used to 'borrow' them, 'copy' them, 'share' them with friends, and consider that since they were written down they were probably free for the taking. Not so. Nowadays we are aware of the importance of giving credit when we can and respecting the copyrights of other designers. I listed several Brazilian embroidery reference books here the other day which are loaded with flowers, stitches and other helpful information.

The 16 flowers I'm posting here are almost all in general use and, in most cases, the original designer is unknown. If I know where the flower originated, I'll list it if you would like more information.  With each flower I have added various forms of greenery, trying to change stitches so that these little designs can be used as a teaching tool, or for your own personal use. Be experimental yourself, be adventurous, and most of all, have fun.

As I stitched some of these designs when I made that little quilt, I posted information here on my blog.  I wrote about the Bossa Nova Rose (#3 of 16) here, if you'd like more details. (I forgot to include them in my previous post)

#5 of 16:  The Lazy/Geron Daisy 

The Lazy/Geron Daisy

Greenery. Iris, medium green, shaded.           

• Satin stitch across each leaf. Begin at the leaf tip and stitch each leaf in a different direction. As you reach a stem, change to stem stitch. When leaves are satin stitched at different angles, you'll get a feeling of movement - leaves dancing in the breeze.

Flower.
The Geron (or Gerone) Daisy appears in all of the earliest BDE books and it has stamens that are created with the traditional pistil stitch (sometimes called French-knot-on-a-stalk). I always thought there should be "a better way", since the original stitch tended to have a floppy stem and was just annoying (to me) in general. As I played with my needle one day, I had an "I Wonder What Would Happen If..." moment and discovered the Cast-on Pistil Stitch. This link has detailed instructions for working this stitch and I hope you use it often. One of the nice things about Brazilian embroidery is that its creativity allows one to make all sorts of choices and substitutions. I hope you will try.

The other stitch used for this flower is one of our most popular BDE stitches - the lazy daisy. There are several variations. Sometimes the technique shown here is called a wrapped, knotted or fancy lazy daisy stitch, sometimes a Brazilian lazy daisy (or two-step lazy daisy) stitch and first described by Mary Clark, Vee Wedow and Mary Kurbis in some of the early B.E. books. 

There are two different methods of completing either of these lazy daisies. For the wrapped lazy daisy, instead of just a regular tacking stitch, bullion-wrap your needle 3-4 (or more) times and sink the needle into the fabric at the end of these wraps, tucking the longer right-side thread beneath the bullion.

The stitch tends to look a little lopsided, and if you would like something more uniform, try the two-step (or Brazilian) lazy daisy. For this version, begin with a lazy daisy and bring your needle up inside the loop. To finish, go some distance away and bring the needle up inside your loop again, wrapping as many times as you like, and then go down and out at the far end of the bullion. I've described this stitch more thoroughly in the book Take A Stitch by Rosalie Wakefield (page 74). You can email me if you'd like more detail, too.

• Stitch the lazies and the pistils with Iris, or try a metallic thread such as Candlelight, or any other fiber.
• Finish by adding a 15-loop cast-on stitch at the base of the 'stamens' and complete the embroidery by adding a bead or French knot at the center.

#6 of 16: Bullion Daisy





Bullion Daisy.  The bullion and the cast-on stitch are the first two stitches we learn when we discover Brazilian dimensional embroidery. The bullion has been around, of course, since The REALLY Olden Days. If anyone has Googled the bullion, you'll find references to some ancient work discovered in the Middle East, a little dusty for sure, but still recognizable.

 

Greenery. Iris, green.  Straight stitches. Start at the tip of the leaf and offset each stitch slightly to give the impression of a center leaf vein without actually stitching it.

 

Flower. Lola. A variegated color is nice, but any color makes a beautiful flower. Divide your circle into 8's. Bring the needle up on the outer edge of the circle and make a 12-wrap bullion, finishing the bullion about 1/8" away from the flower center.  Work the "North-South-East-West" bullions first. Next, make another 12-wrap bullion between each of the first round of bullions. When you work with shaded or variegated floss, alternate bullions around the circle. This will 'arrange' your colors in a pleasing manner.

 

When you have finished all of your bullions, you can either satin stitch the flower center or add a big fat bead for sparkle. Convince the bullions that standing up nicely is a good idea by slipping your needle beneath the bullions, working around 2-3 times and then giving the floss a tug. This will make all of the bullions stand up and is especially nice if you are stitching these flowers on clothing.  I call it the "Wrap 'n Gather", and if you have any of my books or Millefiori designs, you'll find that it's a favorite of mine.  By the way, this works for cast-on stitches, too - really makes them look nice!

 

#7 of 16: Peach Blossom

Peach Blossom.

 

Greenery. Iris, green.  Begin at the tip of each leaf with a straight stitch and work towards the stem with fly stitches. The tacking stitch on the fly will create a center leaf vein. When you reach the stem, just add a longer tacking stitch. Easy as pie! Stems may be worked with stem or outline stitch (I prefer outline stitch - I just like the more natural look).

 

Flower.  Lola.

I wrote about this versatile stitch here and if you play with it, you'll find that it makes wonderful leaves and petals with exciting shaping results. The detached buttonhole stitch is a form of needle lace and was introduced to Brazilian embroidery stitchers with the same technique as used for needle lace - a straight stitch or bar with detached buttonhole stitches added. I always had trouble with the loops sliding up or down or beneath a neighbor and decided there must be an easier way. There was!  Start with a cast-on stitch.  Nobody gets that close to your work to see how you started. Only. You. Will. Know.

 

Begin each of the four peach blossom petals with a 6-loop cast-on stitch. Work back and forth, increasing at either the beginning or end of the row. If you like your petal to have more support, just take the thread back (on top of the petal) to the start and stitch through a loop and the 'cord' together. This is called the corded buttonhole stitch and makes a heavier petal.

 

If you like your flower petals to 'cup', just connect one to the next.  Add a bead at the flower center.



                          

#8 of 16: Rolled Rose

The Rolled Rose.

This is one of the first dimensional flowers most of us have learned. You'll recognize the flower by the oval and 2 straight lines. The original flower is worked entirely with bullions, but I like to change things up a little and have done several variations. I like the cast-on stitches at the base of the flower because they make it look a little more "floral".

 

Greenery. Iris, any green.  Outline stitch stems and stitch leaves with either the alternating satin stitch or a fly stitch leaf with stitches alternating long and short to demonstrate the ragged leaf of the rose.

 

Flower. Lola.  Begin at flower center with 2, side-by-side 8-wrap bullions. Continue alternating sides with 10-wrap and 12-wrap bullions, tapering to a point at the top of the flower. Then add a 15-wrap bullion along one side. Finish each flower with 2, 8-10 loop cast-on stitches, overlapping slightly at the base.

 

Stitch the buds with 8 and 10-wrap bullions and add a calyx across the bottom with a 6-wrap bullion in your flower color.

 

 

OK.  Time to take a break. Have fun with these flowers and I'll try to get the rest posted tomorrow.

Rosalie

 

 

 

 





Flowers from The Olden Days in Brazilian Dimensional Embroidery

First, Some History:

Back in the olden days of Brazilian dimensional embroidery, our popular rayon floss was hand-dyed in Brazil (hence the name) and sold under names such as Var-I-Cor and Mat-I-Kor. Household items were stitched with these brightly-colored fibers; they were later produced under brand names such as Star, Divine, Dye-Pot, Rajmahal, Marlitt, DMC and today - the EdMar Company, located in the United States.

The vibrant colors and development of dimensional stitches fueled the growing popularity of Brazilian embroidery. Those who learned the basic stitches taught others and soon it seemed like everyone wanted to know how to produce this beautiful needlework. As small groups met to stitch and share, interest grew, and one farsighted teacher, Virginia Chapman, began offering seminars in the USA and supplying books, threads and designs. Virginia's dream was a guild where all could meet, learn, and share ideas, and she founded the Brazilian Dimensional Embroidery International Guild, Inc. over 20 years ago with membership now reaching into a half dozen different countries.

I was invited to write about Brazilian embroidery for Needle Arts, the EGA magazine, and some of the above information is excerpted from that March 2013 article.

The Floss - The Stitches - The Flowers:

I've written before about the Z-twist floss (EdMar threads, Candlelight Threads), compared to S-twist floss (Perle cotton). When one makes looped (cast-on) or wrapped (bullion) stitches with Z-twist fibers, the threads are wrapped clockwise around the needle for best effect. If only Perle cottons or other S-twist threads are available, one would wrap the needle in a counter or anti-clockwise direction. A milliners needle works best for these stitches.

It's always a good habit to (with Z-twist floss) stitch - or progress - in a clockwise direction for other stitches, too.  Detached buttonhole stitch, lazy daisy, stem or outline stitch., etc., apply to this suggestion. Embroidery or chenille needles and sometimes a tapestry needle are suggested, but use the needle you like. 

Remember, the things I write about are ideas that have worked for me - things I've learned from other instructors, and things I've experimented with when I don't feel like following directions from start to finish. (It works! sometimes...)

I've also found that satin stitch (parallel straight stitch for those who don't love satin stitching) shimmers in the light when all stitches are 'laid' on the fabric. This is a good idea for all of the rayon twisted fibers ...when the twists match, the embroidery is truly lovely. You can lift the floss up from the fabric a couple of inches and then settle it in place to qualify as "laying the stitch", or you can twirl your needle to loosen the twists (they tighten as they go through the fabric).

Enough Already!!  The Flowers, The Flowers...:

Through the years our dimensional and even non-dimensional stitches have been combined, rearranged or re-invented to produce beautiful dimensional flowers. You'll be able to read more if you follow the links at the BDEIG website. There is also a page of basic stitch instructions, books with instructions, AND there's a BDEIG membership form.  --and you can drop me a note any time. I love to talk about B.E., and if I don't know an answer (totally possible), I can put you in touch with someone else who will help.

We all respect the rights of designers who want to provide (i.e., be able to afford to provide) more designs for stitchers. For many of us, Brazilian embroidery is closely tied to our small businesses, so we always appreciate your consideration. And credit. (uh, oh ... I feel blatant advertising starting to surface)....
      If you like a flower, you can write and ask permission to use it on a design you create to sell. But if you want to use a flower you find on anything you embroider, have fun. Substitute flowers if you like.  I have LOTS of them here in My Book of Stitches. (Available at my website or through Amazon)  

Sometimes you'll recognize a stitch but with a name I've bestowed upon it -- mostly because, try as I might, I don't seem to be able to keep up with every stitch floating around.

But back in The Olden Days, so many people copied each other's Brazilian embroidery flowers so freely (it was probably how they learned from each other) that original copyrights and credits became murky. Over 50 years later, it is generally agreed that some of these original flowers have entered the public domain.

When I stitched that little quilt, "The Olden Days" -- Early Brazilian Embroidery Flowers,  I used these flowers but drew different greenery for each of the 16 flowers, trying to use a different stitch for each so those who stitch together can learn from each other.

But you don't have to make a quilt. There are lots of ideas floating around for these flowers ... you can use them to decorate pockets, a needle case, fabric post cards, an art journal, a crazy quilt or even a sane quilt. Or make an ornament, flowers stitched in holiday colors, or an Easter egg with a bunny or a chick on one side, flower on the other.

 

(From Millefiori #828 - Flower Patch Pillow)

 

If you decide to use them all in one color-coordinated project, or in a quilt, I suggest purchasing your fabric first. Next, select your floss colors to complement the quilt fabrics (I used all Iris colors, with just a bit of Glory and Lola here and there). And I used beads (always cheerfully taking the place of colonial or French knots or flower centers). I just like the sparkle.

If you decide to copy/paste these blog entries, try this (to save paper): Open a Word file. Make 2 columns, narrow margins, 1-2 points between columns. Copy the blog entry, photos and all. Paste it into your Word file. Re-set the line spacing to single spacing and re-set the font size if you wish. Now you are ready to stitch, plus you will have a traceable pattern. (It is just SO hard to hold your fabric up to your computer monitor and trace, trace, trace....)

I'm going to post a picture of the final flowers that I stitched, and then a pattern. And then some instructions and sources, if you want to read more. Each of the flower designs will fit into a 2.5" square. If you wish to title your flowers, I traced the letters using a font named Eurostile, 14 pt.

Well, Finally!  I'll Bet You Never Thought I'd Never Make it to Here:
(The original post about The Olden Days flowers is here.)

#1 of 16:  Fuchsia

The Fuchsia.

Greenery. Iris, medium green. 

• Alternating satin stitch leaf.
• Brazilian outline stitch (floss held below the line of stitching) for stems.
• Double the Iris floss to outline stitch the fuchsia stem.

Stamens. Glory, light green. You can stitch the stamens with a traditional pistil stitch, or you can try the NEW cast-on pistil stitch that I developed and couch gentle curves. Instructions for the new cast-on pistil stitch are here.

Flower.
Iris, light. 

• Make the flower center with 5 side-by-side bullions, left to right: 12, 10, 10, 10, and 12 wraps. [The pattern shows 2 vertical center bullions, but I made 3.]

Iris, dark.

• Satin stitch the top of the flower at an angle.
• Add 2 reverse lazy daisy stitches on each side. For the reverse lazy daisy, begin the stitch at a distance away from the flower and offset the [a-b] start of the stitch so these side petals will taper to a point. 
• At the top of the bullions, add a 15-loop cast-on stitch. Refer to photo. 

Brazilian dimensional embroidery instruction books are listed below. I use these for reference, and then I make changes when I feel like it. I hope you'll do the same to make these flowers truly your own creations.

Resources:

Aguilar, Zeann.  Dimensional Embroidery
Ferrell, Ria       JDR Brazilian Embroidery, Book 1
Freitas, Maria.  The Art of Dimensional Embroidery
Johnson, Barbara Demke.  Brazilian Embroidery Instructions
Montague, Rosie.      Brazilian Three-Dimensional Embroidery
Wakefield, Rosalie.   Take A Stitch
Wakefield, Rosalie.   My Book of Stitches
Wakefield, Rosalie.   My LadyFlowers
brazilian-dimensional-embroidery.org/stitch_instructions.htm

 

#2 of 16: Maria's Rose

 

Maria's Rose. Maria's Rose, developed by Maria Freitas, is one of our original dimensional flowers. It is similar to the bullion rose or Bossa Nova Rose which follows, except that each stitch is a cast-on instead of a bullion. Experiment with the number of loops you make for each stitch, and you'll be surprised at how this flower changes itself!

 

Greenery. Iris, green.

• For each leaf, begin with a straight stitch at the end of the leaf. Start the stitch along the center vein so the floss tail doesn't shadow through the fabric.
• Working down toward the stem, make fly stitches, some longer than others to make a ragged leaf. The stitch at the stem end is longer and becomes a flower stem.

Fine Growth. Glory, light green. The fine growth which makes Brazilian embroidery so elegant is often used, and there are many ways of doing this fill. You can make long-tailed feather stitches, or you can couch straight stitches. Another interesting method of couching fine growth is done by Rosie Montague in her book (this Dover book is readily available from most vendors). She begins at the flower and makes a 1-inch straight stitch. Halfway back along this stitch, she will couch another 1-inch straight stitch. Then she repeats this same process, first in one direction and then another until the background is filled. The stitcher has an option of grouping French knots or beads to indicate tiny field flowers.

 

Maria's Rose. Lola.

• On each side of the tiny center square, make cast-on stitches, 8-loops, 10-loops, 12-loops and then 14 loops. Work in a clockwise direction and slip the floss behind the needle, holding the loops on the needle as you pull through the fabric and settle the stitch in place. This will prevent unwelcome kinks at the end of the stitch. Start each stitch slightly behind  the previous stitch.
• On the second round of stitches, you can continue making cast-on stitches, increasing the number of loops for each, or keeping all cast-on stitches to 14 or 16 loops. 
• Continue with a third and fourth round of stitches until you reach the outer dotted area of the pattern.
• Optional. Add an 8/o seed bead at the flower center.

 

#3 of 16: Bossa Nova Rose

Bossa Nova Rose
http://rosaliewakefield-millefiori.blogspot.ca/2013/01/the-bossa-nova-rose.html
I'm adding this edit.  When I first worked on this flower I wrote a detailed blog post. If you'd like to see more, please visit the above link.

Greenery.

• Iris, medium green. Stitch the leaves with buttonhole stitch. Work from the base to tip of leaf for each leaf.
• Iris, light green.  Outline stitch each leaf with this lighter color and add a row of outline stitch for each leaf and stem. If you like 'bright', try a metallic thread for this step.

Flower. Lola.

• The Bossa Nova Rose in Barbara Demke Johnson's book (and elsewhere) begins with 3 French knots at the flower center. (I used a big sparkly bead.)
• Now make bullions around the flower center, beginning with 10 wraps, and increasing 2 wraps for each until you reach 24-wraps. Finish by filling out the circular shape with 24-wraps. If you tuck each bullion closely beneath the previous, you'll see the flower pop up even higher on the fabric.

Flower Buds, Calyxes and Stems.

• Lola. Make each flower bud with a 12-wrap bullion and a 15-wrap bullion. These bullions overlap at the tip but are side by side at the base.
• Iris, green. Add 2, 8-wrap bullions just beneath these buds and finish with an outline-stitched stem.

#4 of 16: Snow Flower

Snow Flower.



I stitched my Snow Flower from instructions in the book JDR Brazilian Embroidery by Ria Ferrell, but there are variations in several books. Choose one you like, or vary these instructions and create your own!

Greenery. Iris, green.

• The leaves are side-by-side lazy daisy stitches. If you extend one of the starting points slightly and offset the stitches as you work up the stem, you'll find you don't need to stitch a stem (It's an optical illusion) and your greenery won't be so bulky.
• Double the Iris floss and outline stitch the flower stem.

Flower.

• Iris, Color #1. Make stamens using the cast-on pistil stitch. Where the stamens join the flower petal, add a 6-loop cast-on stitch.
• Lola, Color #2. The upper petals are 60-wrap bullions. Make the first two bullions side-by-side, and add a third, 50-wrap bullion just in front. Refer to photo.
• Across the base of the bullions and just above the Color #1 cast-on stitch, add a 10-wrap bullion. Just above this, make an 18-wrap bullion, tacking the center. This bullion should cover the base of the 3 looped bullions.

These flowers make wonderful class projects, and if you decide to teach them, please give credit.

Now before Blogger takes away all of my space (if they do that), I'll take a break. We have 12 more flowers to stitch and I'll write about those in the next two blog entries. I hope you have fun playing around with these flowers and, if you have any questions, please email me, or leave a note in the Comments section of this blog. Have fun!

Rosalie